After two and a half years of formulation and testing, the line will launch with Major Fade, a collection of three products — a mask, serum, and moisturizer — designed to reduce hyperpigmentation. It’s a bold entry for the brand: Discoloration is notoriously difficult to treat, even with prescription-strength topicals.
But for Dr. Idriss, the decision to launch with Major Fade was a “no-brainer.” The reason, she says, harkens back to that painting: “When my patients take a step back, they can see what their biggest issue is and, from my clinical experience, that’s [almost] always pigmentation,” she explains. “You can have all the lines and wrinkles in the world, but as long as your skin tone is even, it doesn’t matter.”
Each of the three formulas works to achieve that goal in its own way. The Flash Mask, a blend of glycolic, lactic, and tranexamic acids, helps clarify and brighten the skin’s surface. Hyper Serum (which Dr. Idriss calls her “baby”) takes a more proactive approach with a blend of kojic and diglucosyl gallic acids that curb the enzyme responsible for the production of excess melanin. Finally, Active Seal is designed to do just that: help actives from the serum penetrate the skin more deeply through the power of occlusion.
Talia Gutierrez, Allure‘s editorial assistant, reports having hyperpigmentation and acne scarring along her jawline and cheekbones. “Applying a thin layer of the Flash Mask once a week for a month has made all the difference,” she says, adding that the 10-minute mask not only brightened discoloration, but made her skin feel noticeably softer, too.
Associate News Editor Gabi Thorne and Editorial Assistant Jennet Jusu found themselves reaching for Hyper Serum morning and night, for both its brightening and hydrating benefits. “The serum — which is actually more of a gel-cream texture — is hydrating enough to use on its own,” says Thorne.
Our more-sensitive testers appreciated that the formulations are all fragrance-free — a detail that comes thanks to Dr. Idriss’s legions of loyal followers. During development, she posted an Instagram poll asking for opinions on fragrance in skin care. When more than 60 percent voted against it, Dr. Idriss (who personally prefers a light scent) acquiesced, deciding to leave it out.
But fragrance is one of the few areas where Dr. Idriss is willing to compromise. The core of her mission, she says, is to “make highly effective products available to the masses” and to continue
to educate people along the way. “I think, through education comes knowledge, comes empowerment,” she adds. “I want my consumers to know the how, the why, and the what.”